What a mystical place!


Mana Pools National Park is one of the most remote and pristine wildlife destinations in Africa. Located in the north of Zimbabwe, along the Zambezi river, it is home to a rich variety of animals and plants, including the iconic standing-up elephants. I had always dreamed of visiting this place, and in September 2023, I finally got the chance to experience it for myself. This is the story of my first trip to Mana Pools, and how it changed my perspective on nature and conservation.


The journey to Mana Pools was an adventure in itself. I flew from Johannesburg to Harare, the capital of Zimbabwe, and then boarded a small plane with only four seats. The flight took about an hour and a half, and I enjoyed the stunning views of the landscape below. I saw vast plains, rugged mountains, and winding rivers. I felt a surge of excitement as we approached the airstrip at Mana Pools, a narrow strip of land surrounded by trees and grass. I could already sense the wildness of the place, and I couldn't wait to explore it.


As soon as I landed, I was greeted by my field guide, who would accompany me throughout my stay. He drove me to the lodge, which was located at the edge of the Zambezi river. The lodge was a luxury tented camp, with spacious and comfortable rooms, an open dining area, a lounge, and a private swimming pool. The best part was the view: from my room, I could see the river and the Zambian mountains beyond, and hear the sounds of the wildlife. I felt like I was in paradise.

A sequence showing an elephant standing upright against a tree in different positions.

Standing-up elephant

An eland walking across dry terrain against a blue sky background.

Giant eland antelope

A monkey moves through tree branches against a bright blue sky background.

Vervet monkey

A hippopotamus emerges from water showing its large open mouth.

Hippo fighting

A saddle-billed stork forages in wetland vegetation.

Saddle-billed stork

A hornbill bird walks on dry ground showing its distinctive curved beak.

Red-billed hornbill

An eland antelope with a fresh newborn

New-born eland antelope

A distant line of African elephants walking across the savanna.

Some elephants in a distance

Wildlife at Mana Pools


The main reason I came to Mana Pools was to see the wildlife, and I was not disappointed. The park is famous for its elephants, especially the ones that stand on their hind legs to reach the branches of the trees. This is a rare and amazing behaviour, that shows the intelligence and adaptability of these animals. I was lucky enough to witness it several times, and I was amazed by the grace and strength of the elephants. They were also very relaxed and tolerant of humans, and I could get quite close to them without disturbing them.


But elephants were not the only animals I saw. I also encountered lions, leopards, buffaloes, zebras, hippos, crocodiles, antelopes, and many more. I saw them on game drives, walks, and boat safaris, and each time I was thrilled by the beauty and diversity of the wildlife. I also learned a lot about the ecology and history of the park, and the challenges and opportunities for conservation. My guide was very knowledgeable and passionate, and he shared his insights and stories with me.


One thing that surprised me about Mana Pools was the absence of some animals that I usually associate with Africa. For example, I did not see any rhinos or giraffes during my visit. My guide explained to me that these animals are not native to this region, and that rhinos have been wiped out by poaching in the past. He said that rhinos used to live in Mana Pools, but they were killed for their horns, which are prized in some Asian markets. Giraffes, on the other hand, never inhabited this area, because it is too wet and wooded for them. They prefer more open and arid habitats, where they can feed on tall trees and avoid predators.


I felt sad and angry to learn that such magnificent creatures have been lost from Mana Pools, and that human greed and ignorance are to blame. I wished I could see them in their natural environment, and marvel at their beauty and uniqueness. But I also realized that Mana Pools has its own charm and character, and that it hosts many other wonderful animals that deserve our attention and protection. I decided to focus on what I could see, rather than what I could not, and to appreciate the diversity and richness of life that Mana Pools offers.

Hippos rest on a sandbar in a large lake with mountains in the background.

Hippo next to Zambezi river

Lone hippopotamus grazing in a scenic African wetland landscape.

Hippos grassing in a distance

Blurred silhouettes of elephant legs with a subtle focal point of a wild dog in the background.

Elephants in front of wild dogs

Two African wild dogs standing alert on dry savanna plains.

Wild dogs watching out

Elephant chasing wild dogs

Angry elephant chasing away the dogs

Waterbuck standing with impala in tall golden grass at sunrise.

Male waterbuck with some impalas crossing by

My lodge: Nyamatusi Camp


One of the highlights of my trip was staying at Nyamatusi Camp, a luxury tented camp run by African Bush Camps. The camp is located on the banks of the Zambezi River, and offers stunning views of the water and the wilderness. The tents are spacious and comfortable, with a proper indoor shower and a private plunge pool on the deck. I enjoyed relaxing in the pool and watching the elephants, hippos, and crocodiles that came to drink from the river. The food at the camp was fantastic, and I especially loved the "make your own pizza" nights and the delicious buffets next to the fireplace. The staff were friendly and attentive, and they made me feel like part of the family. The general area of the camp is completely open air, and consists of two stories with a nice lounge and bar area on the first floor. It was a perfect place to unwind and enjoy the scenery, and to chat with other guests and share our experiences. The camp also had a library and a shop, where I could learn more about the park and buy some souvenirs. Nyamatusi Camp was a wonderful place to stay, and I would highly recommend it to anyone who wants to experience Mana Pools in style and comfort.


One of the most exciting activities that Nyamatusi Camp offered was the canoe trips on the Zambezi river. There is nothing better than to glide over the water in a small canoe, next to hippos and crocodiles and elephants right at the edge of the river. The guides were very skilled and knowledgeable, and they made sure we were safe and comfortable. They also pointed out interesting birds and plants along the way, and told us stories about the park and its history. The canoe trips were done before sunset, and believe me: to see the sunset in the middle of the Zambezi river will change your life! The sky turned into a palette of colors, from orange to pink to purple, and the water reflected the light like a mirror. It was a breathtaking sight, and I felt a surge of emotion and awe. After around an hour on the river, we disembarked for a proper sundowner drink and some snacks, before exploring Mana Pools further on a night safari. The night safari was another amazing experience, as we saw different animals that were more active after dark, such as lions, leopards, hyenas, and owls. We also used a spotlight to illuminate their eyes, which created a spooky and fascinating effect. The night safari was a great way to end the day, and to appreciate the beauty and diversity of Mana Pools.

Hippo yawning with open mouth displaying large teeth in river water.

Hippo yawning

Silhouette of canoe with passengers against dramatic orange sunset over water.

Canoe on Zambezi river

Bird perched on tall termite mound in grassland.

Bird on a termite mount

Safari camp tents under large acacia tree in African savanna landscape.

One of the rooms with a visitor

Squirrel eating orange snack on wooden deck.

Small wildlife on the deck of the lodge

African elephants walk across a dusty savanna landscape at sunset.

Mighty elephant

Close-up view of an elephant's textured foot showing deep wrinkles and cracks in the skin.

Elephant foot

Detail shot of an elephant's tail with coarse black hairs swaying against a golden background.

Elephant tail

Close-up silhouette of an elephant's ear showing its curved edge and rough texture.

Elephant ear

Some facts about Mana Pool National Park


Let's get some facts about Mana Pools National Park:


  • It was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, for its outstanding natural beauty and ecological importance.
  • It covers an area of 2,196 square kilometers, and it is part of the larger Zambezi Valley Conservation Area, which spans four countries: Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mozambique, and Malawi.
  • It is named after the four main pools that form along the river: Main, Chine, Long, and Chisambuk. Mana means "four" in Shona, the local language.
  • It is one of the few places in Africa where visitors can walk freely among the wildlife, without fences or barriers. This allows for close encounters and unique perspectives of the animals and their behavior.
  • It hosts over 350 species of birds, including rare and endangered ones such as the African skimmer, the Pel's fishing owl, and the black eagle. It also has a high concentration of large mammals, such as elephants, buffaloes, zebras, antelopes, and predators like lions, leopards, cheetahs, and wild dogs.

Walking Safaris


One of the best things about Mana Pools is that you can explore it on foot. Walking safaris are a unique way of experiencing the park, as you get to see the wildlife up close and personal. You also get to appreciate the smaller details that you might miss from a vehicle, such as the tracks, the insects, the plants, and the birdsong.


Walking safaris are not for the faint-hearted, though. You need to be fit and alert, as you never know what you might encounter. You also need to follow the instructions of your guide, who knows how to read the signs of the animals and avoid any dangerous situations. Your guide will tell you which animals you can approach safely, and which ones you should keep a distance from. He will also teach you about the ecology and behavior of the animals and plants, and share stories and anecdotes from his experience.


I loved walking safaris because they made me feel more connected to nature and more respectful of the animals. I felt like a guest in their home, rather than an intruder. I also felt a rush of adrenaline every time I saw something amazing, like a herd of elephants bathing in the river, or a pack of wild dogs hunting their prey. It was an unforgettable experience that I would recommend to anyone who loves adventure and wildlife.

Birds silhouetted against orange ground during golden hour.

Successful fish eagle

Hippos wading in a calm lake with mountains visible in the background.

Hippo on the way to Zambezi river

Hippopotamus swimming in water with just its head visible above the surface.

Hippo

Spotted hyenas walking across arid terrain in natural habitat.

Spotted hyena

Hippos wading in shallow water during daytime.

Hippo

Conclusion


My trip to Mana Pools was one of the best experiences of my life. I felt a deep connection with nature, and a profound respect for the wildlife. I also met some wonderful people, who made me feel welcome and comfortable. I left with a sense of awe and gratitude, and a desire to return. Mana Pools is a magical place, and I hope it stays that way for generations to come.


If you ever have a chance to visit Mana Pools National Park, I highly recommend it. It is a truly magical place that will make you fall in love with nature and wildlife. You will never forget the sights and sounds of this amazing park, and the feeling of being part of something bigger than yourself. Mana Pools is not just a destination, it is an experience.

As usual, I wasn't being paid for this blog post by the lodge or Mana Pools itself. This blog post reflects my personal opinion and experience on-site.

Baboons running and leaping across dry savanna ground.

Baboons

Elephants walking through a green wooded area in single file.

Elephant

Zebras grazing in a line on brown savanna grassland.

Drinking Zebra

An African elephants walking across a dry savanna landscape at sunset.

Elephant with a bird

Several warthogs and other wildlife grazing on grassy plains near a body of water.

Warthog family

Close-up panoramic view of African elephants walking through tall grass in natural habitat.

Elephant mom and calf

Group of elephants foraging in golden grassland with mountains in background at dusk.

Iconic elephants

Ground hornbills with distinctive red facial features walking through dry grass.

Ground Hornbill

Lions resting in shade beneath trees in African savanna during golden hour.

Young male lion

Lions moving through dry bushland with dead trees during sunset.

Male lion chased away by elephants

Herd of Cape buffalo grazing in grassland during early morning.

Buffalos