What a mystical place!
Mana Pools National Park is one of the most remote and pristine wildlife destinations in Africa. Located in the north of Zimbabwe, along the Zambezi river, it is home to a rich variety of animals and plants, including the iconic standing-up elephants. I had always dreamed of visiting this place, and in September 2023, I finally got the chance to experience it for myself. This is the story of my first trip to Mana Pools, and how it changed my perspective on nature and conservation.
The journey to Mana Pools was an adventure in itself. I flew from Johannesburg to Harare, the capital of Zimbabwe, and then boarded a small plane with only four seats. The flight took about an hour and a half, and I enjoyed the stunning views of the landscape below. I saw vast plains, rugged mountains, and winding rivers. I felt a surge of excitement as we approached the airstrip at Mana Pools, a narrow strip of land surrounded by trees and grass. I could already sense the wildness of the place, and I couldn't wait to explore it.
As soon as I landed, I was greeted by my field guide, who would accompany me throughout my stay. He drove me to the lodge, which was located at the edge of the Zambezi river. The lodge was a luxury tented camp, with spacious and comfortable rooms, an open dining area, a lounge, and a private swimming pool. The best part was the view: from my room, I could see the river and the Zambian mountains beyond, and hear the sounds of the wildlife. I felt like I was in paradise.
Standing-up elephant
Giant eland antelope
Vervet monkey
Hippo fighting
Saddle-billed stork
Red-billed hornbill
New-born eland antelope
Some elephants in a distance
Wildlife at Mana Pools
The main reason I came to Mana Pools was to see the wildlife, and I was not disappointed. The park is famous for its elephants, especially the ones that stand on their hind legs to reach the branches of the trees. This is a rare and amazing behaviour, that shows the intelligence and adaptability of these animals. I was lucky enough to witness it several times, and I was amazed by the grace and strength of the elephants. They were also very relaxed and tolerant of humans, and I could get quite close to them without disturbing them.
But elephants were not the only animals I saw. I also encountered lions, leopards, buffaloes, zebras, hippos, crocodiles, antelopes, and many more. I saw them on game drives, walks, and boat safaris, and each time I was thrilled by the beauty and diversity of the wildlife. I also learned a lot about the ecology and history of the park, and the challenges and opportunities for conservation. My guide was very knowledgeable and passionate, and he shared his insights and stories with me.
One thing that surprised me about Mana Pools was the absence of some animals that I usually associate with Africa. For example, I did not see any rhinos or giraffes during my visit. My guide explained to me that these animals are not native to this region, and that rhinos have been wiped out by poaching in the past. He said that rhinos used to live in Mana Pools, but they were killed for their horns, which are prized in some Asian markets. Giraffes, on the other hand, never inhabited this area, because it is too wet and wooded for them. They prefer more open and arid habitats, where they can feed on tall trees and avoid predators.
I felt sad and angry to learn that such magnificent creatures have been lost from Mana Pools, and that human greed and ignorance are to blame. I wished I could see them in their natural environment, and marvel at their beauty and uniqueness. But I also realized that Mana Pools has its own charm and character, and that it hosts many other wonderful animals that deserve our attention and protection. I decided to focus on what I could see, rather than what I could not, and to appreciate the diversity and richness of life that Mana Pools offers.
Hippo next to Zambezi river
Hippos grassing in a distance
Elephants in front of wild dogs
Wild dogs watching out
Angry elephant chasing away the dogs
Male waterbuck with some impalas crossing by
My lodge: Nyamatusi Camp
One of the highlights of my trip was staying at Nyamatusi Camp, a luxury tented camp run by African Bush Camps. The camp is located on the banks of the Zambezi River, and offers stunning views of the water and the wilderness. The tents are spacious and comfortable, with a proper indoor shower and a private plunge pool on the deck. I enjoyed relaxing in the pool and watching the elephants, hippos, and crocodiles that came to drink from the river. The food at the camp was fantastic, and I especially loved the "make your own pizza" nights and the delicious buffets next to the fireplace. The staff were friendly and attentive, and they made me feel like part of the family. The general area of the camp is completely open air, and consists of two stories with a nice lounge and bar area on the first floor. It was a perfect place to unwind and enjoy the scenery, and to chat with other guests and share our experiences. The camp also had a library and a shop, where I could learn more about the park and buy some souvenirs. Nyamatusi Camp was a wonderful place to stay, and I would highly recommend it to anyone who wants to experience Mana Pools in style and comfort.
One of the most exciting activities that Nyamatusi Camp offered was the canoe trips on the Zambezi river. There is nothing better than to glide over the water in a small canoe, next to hippos and crocodiles and elephants right at the edge of the river. The guides were very skilled and knowledgeable, and they made sure we were safe and comfortable. They also pointed out interesting birds and plants along the way, and told us stories about the park and its history. The canoe trips were done before sunset, and believe me: to see the sunset in the middle of the Zambezi river will change your life! The sky turned into a palette of colors, from orange to pink to purple, and the water reflected the light like a mirror. It was a breathtaking sight, and I felt a surge of emotion and awe. After around an hour on the river, we disembarked for a proper sundowner drink and some snacks, before exploring Mana Pools further on a night safari. The night safari was another amazing experience, as we saw different animals that were more active after dark, such as lions, leopards, hyenas, and owls. We also used a spotlight to illuminate their eyes, which created a spooky and fascinating effect. The night safari was a great way to end the day, and to appreciate the beauty and diversity of Mana Pools.
Hippo yawning
Canoe on Zambezi river
Bird on a termite mount
One of the rooms with a visitor
Small wildlife on the deck of the lodge
Mighty elephant
Elephant foot
Elephant tail
Elephant ear
Some facts about Mana Pool National Park
Let's get some facts about Mana Pools National Park:
- It was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, for its outstanding natural beauty and ecological importance.
- It covers an area of 2,196 square kilometers, and it is part of the larger Zambezi Valley Conservation Area, which spans four countries: Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mozambique, and Malawi.
- It is named after the four main pools that form along the river: Main, Chine, Long, and Chisambuk. Mana means "four" in Shona, the local language.
- It is one of the few places in Africa where visitors can walk freely among the wildlife, without fences or barriers. This allows for close encounters and unique perspectives of the animals and their behavior.
- It hosts over 350 species of birds, including rare and endangered ones such as the African skimmer, the Pel's fishing owl, and the black eagle. It also has a high concentration of large mammals, such as elephants, buffaloes, zebras, antelopes, and predators like lions, leopards, cheetahs, and wild dogs.
Walking Safaris
One of the best things about Mana Pools is that you can explore it on foot. Walking safaris are a unique way of experiencing the park, as you get to see the wildlife up close and personal. You also get to appreciate the smaller details that you might miss from a vehicle, such as the tracks, the insects, the plants, and the birdsong.
Walking safaris are not for the faint-hearted, though. You need to be fit and alert, as you never know what you might encounter. You also need to follow the instructions of your guide, who knows how to read the signs of the animals and avoid any dangerous situations. Your guide will tell you which animals you can approach safely, and which ones you should keep a distance from. He will also teach you about the ecology and behavior of the animals and plants, and share stories and anecdotes from his experience.
I loved walking safaris because they made me feel more connected to nature and more respectful of the animals. I felt like a guest in their home, rather than an intruder. I also felt a rush of adrenaline every time I saw something amazing, like a herd of elephants bathing in the river, or a pack of wild dogs hunting their prey. It was an unforgettable experience that I would recommend to anyone who loves adventure and wildlife.
Successful fish eagle
Hippo on the way to Zambezi river
Hippo
Spotted hyena
Hippo
Conclusion
My trip to Mana Pools was one of the best experiences of my life. I felt a deep connection with nature, and a profound respect for the wildlife. I also met some wonderful people, who made me feel welcome and comfortable. I left with a sense of awe and gratitude, and a desire to return. Mana Pools is a magical place, and I hope it stays that way for generations to come.
If you ever have a chance to visit Mana Pools National Park, I highly recommend it. It is a truly magical place that will make you fall in love with nature and wildlife. You will never forget the sights and sounds of this amazing park, and the feeling of being part of something bigger than yourself. Mana Pools is not just a destination, it is an experience.
As usual, I wasn't being paid for this blog post by the lodge or Mana Pools itself. This blog post reflects my personal opinion and experience on-site.
Baboons
Elephant
Drinking Zebra
Elephant with a bird
Warthog family
Elephant mom and calf
Iconic elephants
Ground Hornbill
Young male lion
Male lion chased away by elephants
Buffalos