Tswalu Kalahari Reserve


After a short flight (around 1.5 hours) from Johannesburg with Fireblade Aviation, I‘ve arrived at Tswalu in the Kalahari Desert. On my transfer to the lodge, I was a bit disappointed to hear, that there were no elephants and hippos. But in comparison you get around 1000 km2 of mountains and red desert sand. I‘ve stayed in the Motse Lodge - just one of the two options you have there currently. This lodge features private vehicles for game drives for every bungalow. They even have a photographic vehicle, which consists of a movable seat, open doors and a gimbal to mount your camera on. Furthermore a photo studio and a canvas printer is available on-site. Beside of a private ranger and tracker for each party. They have three meerkat colonies, which are pretty much used to humans. They are not interacting with them - but at least, it is way easier to get some great pictures of them in action.

Portrait of a kudu antelope showing its distinctive spiral horns in natural habitat.

Watch out for Kudus

Group of warthogs walking in single file on a dirt road.

Warthog family running down the road

Herd of gemsbok antelope grazing in tall grass during golden hour.

Oryx herd crossing by

The lions are separated in a zone (divided by a government owned street). But only this zone is over 200 km2 in size and consists of two prides of lions. The other zone, which stretches out over multiple sand dunes with a size of over 700 km2 is amazing. Every evening I had dinner somewhere else. Once on a sand dune, once at the pool, once in a fine dining restaurant, in a Boma or just a little picknick on a drive. The food was traditional African and the chefs were very personal and flexible. As a foodie, I‘ve never had that great experiences on a safari as at Tswalu. And I‘m really used to 3 starred restaurants around the world.

Safari vehicles line up in a desert landscape with orange sand dunes at sunset.

Stop on a sand dune for a picknick

Outdoor dining setup with chairs and tables arranged on red desert sand during sunset.

Sand dune dinner picknick

Fine dining table setting at dusk with elegant plates and wine glasses.

Fine dining in the desert

The guides and trackers were fantastic and the schedule is completely up to the guests. The skills of the trackers were amazing. They were able to track cheetahs by feet over an hour and were successful. They guide had excellent driving skills and knowledge. Even a bush walk was possible without any problems - including a walk to ancient paintings of bushmen. It was a fantastic experience and I‘m looking forward to be back there soon!

Sequence of meerkats standing guard on red soil against a blue sky background.

Meerkats at their loockout

Cape buffalo moving through tall grass in progressive frames showing its massive horns.

Buffalo laughing at my big lens

Back view sequence of someone wearing sunglasses and dark jacket observing wildlife.

The most Chinese looking African tracker ever

Dramatic sequence of an orange African sunset with the sun descending below the horizon.

Great sunsets on a sand dune

Wildlife photography equipment focused on distant savanna landscape.

Fantastic photographic vehicle

Leopard emerging from tall grass in sequence showing its spotted coat and alert expression.

A leopard is trying to get together with a lions pride

Conclusion


Tswalu is the perfect place for everybody, who is seeking for privacy, photographic opportunities and a great culinary experience. I was never as surprised in a restaurant, as in Klein Jan at Tswalu - and I don‘t spoiler why this applies! Multiple Once-in-a-lifetime experiences within a short period of time. It comes with a higher price tag. But value for money is fantastic! The only downside is, that elephants and hippos are missing. But even for butterfly and bird lovers, it is the place to be. Furthermore: The rest of the „Big 5“ - so called the „Big 4“ is still there.

Black and white sequence of a male lion with magnificent mane appearing to laugh or roar.